The fascinating history of whisky making in Tasmania

Mar 4, 2024
The fascinating history of whisky making in Tasmania
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Australians have long been known to appreciate a drink, so it's entirely plausible to think that the first free European settlers began distilling alcohol as soon as they arrived here in the late 18th century. Read on to learn about the fascinating history of whisky making in Tasmania.
THE FIRST END TO PROHIBITION

Back then, Tasmania was called Van Diemen's Land in honour of the governor general of the Dutch East Indies. The first non-natives settled on the eastern shore of the River Derwent at Risdon Cove in 1803. A year later, Lieutenant Governor David Collins moved the town across the river and the city of Hobart, Tasmania was born.

RIVER DERWENT 1800'S
history of whisky making in tasmania

Beer brewing was encouraged in colonial Tasmania, but the distillation of spirits was not. In fact, distilling was illegal until 1822, when then-governor Lachlan Macquarie acquiesced to the notion that people were going to distil spirits no matter what the law said. Macquarie also realised that legalising whisky would stimulate grain production and bring in a healthy amount of tax money, and small batch distilling was declared lawful.
 In 1822, Thomas Haigh Midwood opened Australia's first legal distillery. Located in Hobart, Sorell Distillery started making whisky in Tasmania a full two years before Scotland's Glenlivet distillery. Once lawful, more than a dozen new distilleries followed in Midwood's footsteps. Thomas Haigh Midwood's personal success was short-lived, however, because he died in September 1823.

DISTILLING BECOMES ILLEGAL AGAIN, BUT ONLY IN TASMANIA

Unlike Scotland, where distilleries have been operating non-stop since the 19th century, the legal whisky business in Tasmania lasted but a few short years. In 1839, the Distillation Prohibition Act officially outlawed all distillation in colonial Tasmania, explains Monocle magazine. Lady Jane Franklin, the teetotal wife of then-governor, John Franklin, famously promoted passage of the Act when she proclaimed: 
"I would prefer barley be fed to pigs than it be used to turn men into swine."
Oddly, the ban on small batch distilling did not extend to mainland Australia but lasted more than a century in Tasmania. In the meantime, Van Diemen's Land changed its name to Tasmania in honour of the first European to get a glimpse of the island we know and love today.

JOHN FRANKLIN
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ENTER THE GODFATHER OF TASMANIAN WHISKY

Prohibition in Tasmania endured until 1992, when a pioneering whisky maker by the name of Bill Lark successfully challenged the unfair and outdated law. Bill Lark was determined to distil first class whisky, but he wanted to do it legally.
While researching how to go about getting a distiller's license in Tasmania, he became aware of Australia's utterly antiquated liquor laws that pertained only to the island. In addition to the Distillation Prohibition Act of 1839, there was another perplexing law, the 1901 Distillation Act, which only permitted massive stills that were beyond the scope of small craft whiskey makers. Lark spoke to Tasmanian MP Duncan Kerr about the discriminatory laws. Kerr relayed Lark's concerns to Federal MP Barry Jones. Ultimately, both laws were amended, and Lark Distillery was established as the first legal Tasmanian distillery since 1882.
Many locals already wanted to make whisky in Tasmania, and lawmakers didn't put up a fight. In fact, the local customs office may have been as thrilled about the end of prohibition than the local whisky makers. As Bill told Scottish Field magazine:
"A lot of people ask me how much of a fight I had to go through, but there was no fight at all. I was pushing at an open door."

BILL LARK
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IT TAKES TIME TO MAKE A GREAT WHISKY

Locally sourced barley, pristine water, Tasmanian Highland peat, and hand-selected oak casks are not the only things Lark used to produce the first above-board Tasmanian whisky in a century and a half. It also took time. In 1998, Lark Distillery released their first commercial --and legal-- distilled single malt whisky to exuberant public acclaim. In 2015, Bill Lark became the first distiller from the Southern Hemisphere to be inducted into the Whisky Hall of Fame and he is known as the Godfather of Tasmanian Whisky.

MODERN TASMANIAN WHISKY

The modern Tasmanian whisky industry that we know today started in the early 1990’s with Lark Distillery founded in 1992 and the Tasmania Distillery which founded in 1994 in Sullivans Cove. Tasmania Distillery changed hands in 1999 and renamed itself Sullivans Cove. The new owners prevailed upon Bill Lark to craft a high-quality single malt whisky. Lark's friend Patrick Maguire ultimately purchased the distillery from the second owners and moved operations to Cambridge. In 2014 Sullivans Cove won the prestigious World Whisky Awards, World's Best Single Malt and really put Tasmanian whisky on the map.
Tasmanian Whisky is spelt without the “e” pointing to its Scottish heritage whereas American and Irish Whiskey is spelt with the “e”. The caveat here is another story with Bill Lark at the start of the tale. In the 1990’s a land surveyor, Damian Mackey went to do some work for Bill Lark and Damian observed, and became fascinated by, those early years of the modern Tasmanian Whisky industry. In the early 2000’s Damian began making whisky but he honoured his own Irish heritage by making triple-distilled whisky (technically speaking: whiskey).

DAMIAN MACKEY
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In 2007 Damian and Madeleine Mackey started Mackey’s Distillery in New Town. Eight years later, they and the Kernke family established Shene Distillery, where John Ibrahim later joined as a shareholder. John Ibrahim, whose friendship with the 'Godfather of Tasmanian Whisky,' Bill Lark, led the pair to travel to Scotland where they got a true 'behind the scenes’ look at European whisky making. John knew from that time his future and his legacy were tied to whisky making. John was already a partner with Bill Lark at Old Kempton Distillery before joining the Shene Distillery team.
 In 2021 John Ibrahim was instrumental in the sale of Shene Distillery to Lark Distillery in a major win, win for the Tasmanian Whisky industry, providing Lark with a much-needed base and expanded distilling operation, and allowing John the time to focus on Callington Mill Distillery.

JOHN IBRAHIM
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Callington Mill Distillery is a dream come true for John. When establishing the distillery, there were no existing turnkey distillery options available in Tasmania. Thanks to an exciting collaboration with Kolmark’s Mark Kolodziej, and a trip to Cardona Distillery in New Zealand, new equipment was developed specifically for Callington Mill Distillery. The latest Tasmanian technology has been utilised to bring about a new era in Tasmanian Whisky and create a distillery on a scale not previously seen in Tasmania.
‘We have built the Rolls Royce of Whisky Distilleries’ - John Ibrahim

CALLINGTON MILL DISTILLERY
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Today, there are more than 80 whisky distilleries located throughout Tasmania. Far from being rivals, Tasmanian distillers enjoy a collegiate brotherhood and inspire one another to create award-winning whiskies that are enjoyed around the world.
The fascinating history of whisky making in Tasmania is only just beginning. Callington Mill’s vision is to become a “world-wide recognisable brand” helping to take Tasmanian Whisky to the next level on the global stage.




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The Art of Solera: Callington Mill’s Unique Approach to Whisky Craftsmanship
The Art of Solera: Callington Mill’s Unique Approach to Whisky Craftsmanship
At Callington Mill Distillery, we believe that every dram tells a story. Our Solera System is an intricate blending process that honours time, tradition, and craftsmanship. It's a rarity in the whisky world, and we're proud to bring it to life here at CMD. But what exactly is Solera, and how does it shape the taste of our whisky? Let’s take you through the fascinating world of Solera and explain how it plays a central role in our limited-edition releases.What Is the Solera System?Originating in Spain, the Solera system has been used for centuries to age and blend wine, brandy, and sherry. It's a process that involves blending small fractions of aged liquid from various barrels over time, creating a layered complexity in the final product. The concept behind Solera is simple yet powerful: each cask contributes to the final dram, but the liquid within the casks is constantly evolving.Imagine a cascading waterfall: the liquid starts at the top and flows down, with each layer blending seamlessly into the next. In the whisky world, this method allows us to create a whisky that evolves with every batch while maintaining a sense of consistency and complexity.How Does Solera Work for Whisky?In the whisky industry, Solera operates a little differently than it does with other spirits. While the traditional system sees the average age of a product gradually increase over time, whisky works a bit more uniquely. Under whisky regulations, the age of a Solera whisky must be defined by the youngest spirit in the blend. This means that, while our Solera system may contain whiskies that are many years old, the official age label will always refer to the youngest component.This fractional blending process ensures that our Solera whisky is always evolving, with each bottling representing a beautiful snapshot of that moment in time.The History of SoleraThe Solera method was first developed by Spanish Sherry producers. It was a way to ensure consistency and quality in every bottle, no matter the age of the wine. The casks, stacked in rows (known as criaderas), house wine of varying ages, with the oldest at the bottom and the youngest at the top. Each time the product is bottled, about one-third is removed from the bottom casks, and that amount is replenished with younger liquid from the row above.This system ensures that a portion of the earliest liquid remains in every barrel, contributing to a consistent and complex blend that grows richer over time. For some Solera wines, it’s said that the first wine placed in the system can still be present in trace amounts after 50 or 100 years—a true testament to the tradition.The Process at Callington Mill DistilleryAt Callington Mill Distillery, we’ve taken this centuries-old tradition and adapted it to create something truly extraordinary. Our Solera System consists of 14 hand-picked casks, each one unique and rare in its origin. These casks—ranging from Cognac, Bourbon, and Sherry Cream, to Madeira, Tokay, and Moscatel—are all part of the intricate process that produces our Solera whisky. Due to space restrictions, we have set up the casks on two sides of our facility. However, the same Solera principle is applied regardless of the cask arrangement: we still take a fraction from every cask to create our Solera release. This ensures that the blend remains consistent, with each cask contributing its unique character to the final product. Our process involves emptying a fraction of a cask and then replenishing it from another cask. This continues across all the casks, ensuring that every barrel is part of the final release. Once this step is complete, we introduce younger matured whisky into the last cask used in the system, continuing the cycle and maintaining the integrity of the blend. Each cask plays a pivotal role in the overall blend. With each cask being a “Finishing Cask” (or “FC”), we ensure that the character of every spirit inside them shines through. The casks are marked with two dates: the initial maturation date, and the date when the cask was introduced into the Solera system.Why Does Solera Matter?For us at Callington Mill Distillery, the Solera system is more than just a technique—it’s a philosophy. It’s about crafting a whisky that tells a story of place, time, and craftsmanship. By combining the influence of 14 different casks from exotic fortified wines, spirits, and the finest barrels available, we create a whisky like no other. The Solera release is an expression of that dedication, one that blends age and youth in a way that celebrates both tradition and innovation.Casks Used in Our Solera System:CognacBourbon ex RumAmontilladoBourbonBrandyBourbon/MuscadelleAustralian BrandyPalo CortadoMadeiraTokayMoscatelTawnyAustralian PortSherry CreamEach cask brings its own influence to the blend, and together, they create a whisky that is bold, refined, and unforgettable.Experience the Magic of SoleraIf you’re a whisky connoisseur or simply someone looking to experience something extraordinary, our Solera release is not to be missed. This unique blend is available in limited quantities, and with only a few bottles left, now is the perfect time to secure your bottle of this rare, artisanal whisky. Don’t miss your chance to own a piece of history. Looking to try Solera today? It is now available as part of our new gift pack and will be available in the near future in a 700ml bottle.
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Poltergeist Gin Cocktails
Poltergeist Gin Cocktails
The team at Callington Mill Distillery has curated a selection of our favourite Poltergeist Cocktails for you to enjoy in the comfort of your home.---Poltergeist Gin & Tonic: Ingredients:• 30ml of Poltergeist Unfiltered Gin• 60ml Tonic water from Tasmanian Tonic Company• 10ml Tasmanian Pepper Berries Tonic Syrup• Ice• Garnish (Optional)This drink is equivalent to one standard drink.Preparation:• Place plenty of ice cubes into a chilled glass.• Add 30ml of Poltergeist Unfiltered Gin.• Pour in 60ml of tonic water.• Add 10ml of Tasmanian Pepper Berries Tonic Syrup.• Give it a slight mix to combine.• Add garnish (optional)This Gin & Tonic is refreshing and delicious, with a flavour profile that does not overpower the premium gin. It has a slightly herbal note, giving it a breezy and summery feel, yet it is classic enough to be enjoyed all year round. The Poltergeist gin itself is smooth and balanced, embodying a London dry style that maintains its distinct character.---Poltergeist Citrus Negroni:Ingredients:• 25ml of Poltergeist Citrus Gin• 25ml Campari• 25ml Sweet Red Vermouth• Large ice cube• Orange Peel (optional)This drink is equivalent to two standard drinks.Preparation:• Fill mixing glass with ice.• Add Poltergeist Citrus Gin, Campari and Red Vermouth into glass.• Stir well.• Strain into a glass with a large ice cube.• Garnish with orange peel (optional)The Negroni is a classic aperitif made entirely of liquor, offering a robust but not overly strong drink. It has a complex flavour profile with notes of cherry, wine, and citrus, balanced by noticeable bitter undertones.---Poltergeist Barrel Aged Martini:Ingredients:• 45ml of Poltergeist Barrel Aged Gin• 30ml Dry Vermouth• Ice• Olives (optional)This drink is equivalent to one and a half standard drinks.Preparation:• Pour all Poltergeist Barrel Aged Gin and Dry Vermouth into a cocktail mixer with ice cubes.• Stir well and strain into a chilled martini cocktail glass.• Garnish with 3 olives on a cocktail stick. (optional)The martini has become one of the best-known mixed alcoholic beverages over the years so why not try our spin on things. The Poltergeist Barrel Aged Martini flavour is intriguing and botanical, perfectly balanced with the subtle tang of the dry vermouth. Delicious.
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Callington Mill Cooperage - Where “Oak Matters Most”
Callington Mill Cooperage - Where “Oak Matters Most”
We all know that single malt whisky is made from water, barley, yeast and then its matured in Oak - but oak doesn’t receive the acknowledgment it deserves in the whisky making process.100% of the colour and up to 70-80% of the complex flavours comes from the Cask and from the previous wine or spirit that that Cask previously held.Oak, predominately via the inside charring of the Cask, also filters & removes unpleasant and undesirable sulphur compounds during the maturation process.But that’s not all - between 25% to 50% of the whisky is lost in evaporation during maturation - this is referred to as the “angel’s share.”These combined “additive” & “subtractive” features of the maturation process dramatically influences the final character and composition of the whiskey. That’s why we established our own Cooperage in 2016 - in order to have direct control over Callington Mill’s entire Oak regime.We also have strategic alliances with Cooperages in Spain & Portugal; supplying premium American, European and French Oak Casks that previously held ex fortified wine - like Port from the Douro Valley wine region in Porto Portugal to Sherry from the renowned Sherry triangle region in Jerez de la Frontera Spain.This ex fortified Oak regime is extremely costly - about 10 times more expensive than say ex bourbon casks. However, this Oak regime is the backbone of Callington Mill’s identity - providing character and flavour complexity that we are renowned for and endeavour to continuously evolve - a rich, tearing and viscous whisky - bursting with flavours of dark chocolate, raisins, figs, nuts, coffee, caramel, apricots and honey - ranging in colour from gold, amber to chestnut & deep mahogany.A truely complex, elegant and full bodied whisky. Why do we use 30 Litre casks?Being a start up distillery & In order to have our whisky matured in 3-4 years; we adopted an initial maturation regime in 30 litre casks. The smaller cask allows for greater whisky to wood surface ratio & oak interaction - thereby accelerating the maturation process as compared with a much bigger cask. This however is a much more costly process again - about 13 times more costly per litre of whisky.This cost is not sustainable in the long term - but we felt we needed to absorb this initial cost in order to have quality whisky available to market at an earlier time frame.At Callington Mill we believe that in order to master the whisky making process - we need to Master the Oak process.Therefore at Callington Mill we believe ‘Oak Matters Most.’
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